Red wine | Tuscany, Italy
The 2019 Bibi Graetz Testamatta is a monumental expression of Tuscany, released as a special 20th-anniversary bottling. Produced by the visionary artist-turned-winemaker Bibi Graetz, this wine is a testament to the potential of Sangiovese. Sourced from five of the estate’s highest-altitude, old-vine vineyards—including sites in Lamole, Montefili, and Vincigliata—the grapes are meticulously harvested in up to eight separate passes to ensure perfect ripeness.
On the nose, it offers a sophisticated and intense bouquet, leading with bright red cherries and black plums, perfectly layered with ethereal floral notes, sandalwood, and a subtle savory earthiness. The palate is a masterclass in balance: it is full-bodied and powerful, yet maintains a breathtaking elegance and finesse. The tannins are remarkably plush and velvety, providing a seamless structure that carries the vibrant fruit flavors toward a long, clean, and mineral-driven finish.
This wine is not just a bottle of red; it is an invitation to experience the heart of modern Tuscan winemaking. It pairs beautifully with rich, savory dishes such as herb-crusted rack of lamb, roasted wild boar, or aged Pecorino Toscano. Whether you are a dedicated collector looking for a vintage that captures the pinnacle of Graetz's evolution, or a connoisseur seeking a singular, world-class Sangiovese, the 2019 Testamatta delivers a profound, lingering experience that rewards both immediate enjoyment—after proper decanting—and patience for those who wish to cellar it for years to come.
Impressively structured and avoids being overly jammy. It has a refined elegance that is rare to find, though I still prefer my usual crisp whites. A serious effort that actually earns its praise.